Straight Razor Manufacturers: A Complete Global Reference Guide

THE STRAIGHT RAZOR COLLECTOR’S ENCYCLOPEDIA

Roadshow Collectibles Exclusive

 

PART 1 OF 3

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Full Table of Contents


Germany
England
France
United States
Sweden
Japan
Spain
Italy
Belgium
Netherlands
Austria
Czechoslovakia
Russia
China
Miscellaneous Regions
Glossary

Introduction

Welcome to the world’s most complete straight razor reference guide. This encyclopedia was built for collectors, barbers, historians, and enthusiasts who demand accuracy, depth, and authority — not scattered fragments of information across the internet.

Every major manufacturer. Every country. Every hallmark, trademark, and dating clue. All in one place.

This is the Roadshow Collectibles Straight Razor Encyclopedia — the only guide you will ever need.


Why This Guide Exists

Most razor information online is:

  • Incomplete
  • Inaccurate
  • Repeated without verification
  • Missing historical context
  • Missing manufacturer lineage
  • Missing dating clues
  • Missing steel analysis

Collectors deserve better.

This Encyclopedia Corrects That By Providing:

  • Verified historical data
  • Country‑specific timelines
  • Manufacturer‑by‑manufacturer breakdowns
  • Steel characteristics
  • Dating tools
  • Collector insights
  • Rarity indicators

This is the first truly global, structured, museum‑grade reference for straight razors.


Why Collect Straight Razors

Straight razors are more than shaving tools — they are historical artifacts.

Collectors Value Them Because They Represent:

  • Craftsmanship
  • Engineering evolution
  • Cultural identity
  • Regional steel traditions
  • Barbering heritage

Every Razor Tells a Story:

  • The forge that shaped it
  • The hands that honed it
  • The barbers who used it
  • The era it survived

Collecting razors preserves history.


How To Date a Straight Razor

Dating a razor requires examining multiple clues:


1. TANG STAMPS

Early (1700s–mid 1800s):

  • Deep, uneven, hand‑struck

  • Often crude or partially incomplete

Late (1880–1950):

  • Clean, machine‑cut

  • Consistent depth and alignment

2. GRIND TYPE

Wedge (1700s–mid 1800s): Thick, heavy, no flex.

Quarter Hollow (1850–1900): Transition period.

Full Hollow (1880 onward): Thin, flexible, “singing” blades.

3. SPINE SHAPE

Thick spines: Early production Thin, refined spines: Later production

4. SCALE MATERIALS

Horn: 1700s–1800s Bone: 1800s Ivory: 1800s–early 1900s Celluloid: 1900s Plastic: Mid‑1900s onward

5. ETCHING STYLE

Hand‑cut: Early Acid etch: Mid‑1800s Gold wash: Late 1800s–1900s

6. COUNTRY‑SPECIFIC CLUES

Each region has its own timeline — covered in the country sections.

 

Steel Types & Regional Characteristics

SHEFFIELD STEEL (ENGLAND)

  • Tough
  • Durable
  • Ideal for wedges
  • Smooth, forgiving edges

SOLINGEN STEEL (GERMANY)

  • Hard
  • Fine‑grained
  • Perfect for hollow grinds
  • Extremely consistent

SWEDISH STEEL (ESKILSTUNA)

  • Exceptionally pure
  • Razor‑sharp
  • Long‑lasting edges
  • Highly sought after

SPANISH STEEL (FILARMONICA, IBERIA)

  • Hard
  • Aggressive
  • Legendary sharpness
  • Premium collector value

JAPANESE STEEL (TANIFUJI, IWASAKI)

  • Sword‑grade
  • Extremely hard
  • Unmatched edge retention
  • Precision craftsmanship

AMERICAN STEEL (GENCO, TORREY)

  • Practical
  • Reliable
  • Easy to hone
  • Excellent for beginners

How To Evaluate Condition & Value

1. HONE WEAR

Even minimal wear: Good. Uneven wear: Geometry issues

2. PITTING

Light: Acceptable Deep: Structural risk

3. SPINE GEOMETRY

Straight spine: Ideal. Warped spine: Avoid

4. SCALES

Original scales increase value. Replacements reduce value unless they are historically accurate.


5. RARITY

Some Brands Command Premium Prices:

  • Filarmonica
  • Heljestrand
  • Wade & Butcher
  • Tanifuji
  • Puma
  • Dubl Duck

CARE, HONING & MAINTENANCE

Stropping: Before every shave. Honing: Every 3–6 months. Oil: After each use, store in a dry, cool, low-humidity place. Cleaning: Never use abrasives on etching

COLLECTOR’S GLOSSARY

Wedge: Thick early grind Full Hollow: Thin, flexible grind Shoulderless: Smooth transition from blade to tang Monkey Tail: Curved tail for grip Gold Wash: Decorative gold etching Stabilizer: Reinforcement near the heel Tang Stamp: Manufacturer mark Spine: Top edge of the razor Point Style: Barber’s notch, round, square, French


GLOBAL A–Z MANUFACTURER INDEX

This is the master index of every manufacturer worldwide. Each name links to its country section in Parts 2 and 3.

A–Z LIST: (Alphabetical list of all makers — Germany, England, France, USA, Sweden, Japan, Spain, Italy, Belgium, Netherlands, Austria, Czechoslovakia, Russia, China, Misc.)

THE STRAIGHT RAZOR COLLECTOR’S ENCYCLOPEDIA

 

PART 2 OF 3

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COUNTRY‑BY‑COUNTRY MANUFACTURER GUIDE

PART 2 — GERMANY THROUGH JAPAN

 

Germany — Solingen & Beyond (A–Z)

Germany is the world’s most prolific straight razor producer, with Solingen recognized globally as the “City of Blades.” German razors are known for precision, consistency, and exceptional hollow‑grind craftsmanship.

A. A. & F. MERTZ (Solingen)

Trademarks: Mertz, Mertzwerke Notes: Mid‑grade Solingen production; reliable steel. Rarity: Medium

A. W. WADSWORTH & SON (Solingen for USA)

Trademarks: XLNT, Wadsworth Notes: German‑made for American importers; excellent quality. Rarity: Medium

BENGALL (Solingen for England)

Trademarks: Bengall Notes: Often mistaken as English; many were Solingen‑made. Rarity: Medium

BOKER (Solingen)

Trademarks: Tree Brand, Edelweiss, Red Injun Notes: One of the most collectible German brands. Rarity: Medium–High

DOVO (Solingen)

Trademarks: DOVO, Prima Klang Notes: Modern and vintage; consistent quality. Rarity: Low–Medium

ERN (Solingen)

Trademarks: Crown & Sword, Ator Notes: Highly respected; excellent hollow grinds. Rarity: Medium

FRIEDR. HERDER ABR. SOHN (Solingen)

Trademarks: Ace of Spades Notes: One of Solingen’s oldest cutlers. Rarity: Medium–High

FRIEDR. WILHELM ENGELS (Solingen)

Trademarks: FWE, Perfect Temper Notes: Very collectible; superb steel. Rarity: High

GRAH & PLUMACHER (Solingen)

Trademarks: G&P Notes: Mid‑grade Solingen razors. Rarity: Medium

H. BOKER & CO (Solingen)

Trademarks: Tree Brand Notes: Premium collector brand. Rarity: Medium–High

HENCKELS (Solingen)

Trademarks: Twin Works Notes: One of the most famous Solingen makers. Rarity: Medium

JOSEPH RODGERS (Solingen production for export)

Notes: Some Rodgers razors were Solingen‑made. Rarity: Medium

KLAAS (Solingen)

Trademarks: Kissing Cranes Notes: Highly collectible. Rarity: Medium–High

PUMA (Solingen)

Trademarks: Puma, Puma Gold Notes: Premium steel; extremely collectible. Rarity: High

REVISOR (Solingen)

Notes: Modern and vintage; excellent grinds. Rarity: Medium

WUSTHOF (Solingen)

Notes: Known for knives; razors are less common. Rarity: Medium–High

WILHELM EMIL BERG (WEB) (Solingen)

Notes: High‑quality hollow grinds. Rarity: Medium

WILHELM GREAVES (Solingen)

Notes: Not to be confused with Sheffield Greaves. Rarity: Medium

WUSTENHOLM (Solingen for export)

Notes: Some production occurred in Germany. Rarity: Medium


England — Sheffield & London (A–Z)

England’s Sheffield steel is legendary. English razors are known for toughness, wedge grinds, and early industrial craftsmanship.

ALLEN & SON (Sheffield)

Notes: Early Sheffield maker; wedges common. Rarity: High

BENGALL (Sheffield)

Notes: English and German production; very popular. Rarity: Medium

BUTCHER, WADE & BUTCHER (Sheffield)

Trademarks: For Barbers Use, Celebrated Notes: The most iconic English razor maker. Rarity: Very High

CROOKES (Sheffield)

Notes: Early maker; wedges and near wedges. Rarity: High

DAWES (Sheffield)

Notes: Mid‑grade Sheffield production. Rarity: Medium

ELLIOT (Sheffield)

Notes: Early 1800s; collectible. Rarity: High

FENTON (Sheffield)

Notes: Early maker; wedge razors. Rarity: High

GEORGE WOSTENHOLM (Sheffield)

Trademarks: IXL Notes: One of the most collectible English brands. Rarity: High

JOSEPH RODGERS & SONS (Sheffield)

Trademarks: Star & Cross Notes: Royal warrant holder; premium razors. Rarity: High

MARSDEN (Sheffield)

Notes: Early maker; wedges. Rarity: High

REYNOLDS (Sheffield)

Notes: Early 1800s; collectible. Rarity: High

TAYLOR’S EYE WITNESS (Sheffield)

Notes: Modern and vintage production. Rarity: Medium


France — Thiers & Paris (A–Z)

French razors are known for elegance, fine steel, and unique grind profiles.

AUGUSTE RADERMACHER (Thiers)

Notes: Early French maker. Rarity: High

BROSSARD (Thiers)

Notes: High‑quality French steel. Rarity: Medium

COUDRAY (Paris)

Notes: Elegant French razors. Rarity: Medium–High

LE GOUPIL (Thiers)

Notes: Fox trademark; collectible. Rarity: Medium

LE THIERS ISSARD (Thiers)

Trademarks: TI, Spartacus Notes: Premium French maker. Rarity: Medium

PEUGEOT FRERES (France)

Notes: Yes — the car company once made razors. Rarity: High

THIERS ISSARD (Thiers)

Notes: Modern and vintage; premium steel. Rarity: Medium


United States — New York, Massachusetts & Beyond (A–Z)

American razors are known for practicality, consistency, and excellent beginner‑friendly steel.

BOSTON CUTLERY CO.

Notes: Early American maker. Rarity: Medium

CASE (USA)

Notes: Known for knives; razors are collectible. Rarity: Medium

CHALLENGE CUTLERY (Bridgeport, CT)

Notes: Good steel; mid‑grade. Rarity: Medium

GENCO (Geneva, NY)

Notes: One of the best American razor makers. Rarity: Medium–High

H. BOKER USA (German steel, American import)

Notes: Very collectible. Rarity: Medium

KLAAS USA (German steel)

Notes: Import brand. Rarity: Medium

ONTARIO CUTLERY (USA)

Notes: Practical, durable razors. Rarity: Medium

SHUMATE (St. Louis)

Notes: Very collectible; excellent steel. Rarity: Medium–High

TORREY (Worcester, MA)

Notes: One of the top American makers. Rarity: Medium–High

UNION CUTLERY (Olean, NY)

Trademarks: KA‑BAR Notes: Yes — the knife company made razors. Rarity: Medium


Sweden — Eskilstuna & Regional Makers (A–Z)

Swedish razors are prized for purity, sharpness, and edge retention.

C.V. HELJESTRAND (Eskilstuna)

Trademarks: MK series Notes: Among the finest razors ever made. Rarity: Very High

ERNST JONSSON (Eskilstuna)

Notes: High‑quality Swedish steel. Rarity: Medium

J.A. HELLBERG (Eskilstuna)

Notes: Early Swedish maker. Rarity: High

KIKUO (Swedish steel)

Notes: Rare. Rarity: High

P. HELJESTRAND (Eskilstuna)

Notes: Related to C.V. Heljestrand. Rarity: High


Japan — Osaka, Tokyo & Regional Makers (A–Z)

Japanese razors are known for extreme hardness, precision, and unmatched edge retention.

FON KINMUNE

Notes: High‑quality Japanese steel. Rarity: High

IWASAKI (Sanjo)

Notes: Considered among the best razors ever made. Rarity: Very High

KAMISORI (Various smiths)

Notes: Traditional single‑bevel razors. Rarity: Medium–High

NOSHU (Japan)

Notes: Excellent steel. Rarity: Medium

TANIFUJI (Japan)

Trademarks: Maxfli, Spalding Notes: Legendary Japanese maker. Rarity: Very High

 


The Straight Razor COLLECTOR’S ENCYCLOPEDIA

 

PART 3 OF 3

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Country By Country MANUFACTURER GUIDE (Continued)

PART 3 — Spain Through MISCELLANEOUS Regions

 

Spain — Filarmonica & Iberian Steel (A–Z)

Spain produced some of the sharpest, hardest, most aggressive razors ever made. Spanish steel is legendary among collectors.

 

FILARMONICA (Jose Monserrat Pou, Spain)

Trademarks: JMP, Doble Temple, Sub Cero, Especial Notes: Considered among the finest razors ever produced. Rarity: Extremely High

IBERIA (Spain)

Notes: Premium Spanish steel; highly collectible. Rarity: High

PALMERA (Spain)

Notes: Excellent steel; often compared to Filarmonica. Rarity: Medium–High

SUB CERO (Spain)

Notes: Cryo‑treated Spanish steel. Rarity: High



Italy — Maniago, Milan & Regional Makers (A–Z)

Italian razors are less common but beautifully crafted.


MANIAGO CUTLERS (Italy)

Notes: Known for knives; razors are rare. Rarity: High

RAMEAU (Italy)

Notes: Elegant Italian production. Rarity: Medium–High

ZANETTI (Italy)

Notes: Scarce; collectible. Rarity: High


Belgium — Liège & Regional Makers (A–Z)

Belgium is known more for Coticule stones than razors, but a few makers existed.


LEOPOLD (Belgium)

Notes: Rare Belgian production. Rarity: High

VAN DER LINDEN (Belgium)

Notes: Scarce; collectible. Rarity: High


Netherlands — Rotterdam, Amsterdam & Regional Makers (A–Z)

Dutch razors are uncommon and sought after.


P. KOOYMAN (Netherlands)

Notes: Rare Dutch maker. Rarity: High

VAN VLIET (Netherlands)

Notes: Scarce; collectible. Rarity: High


Austria — Vienna, Graz & Regional Makers (A–Z)

Austrian razors are uncommon but well‑made.


A. FEIST (Austria)

Notes: Good steel; collectible. Rarity: Medium–High

WIENER SCHNITT (Vienna)

Notes: Rare Austrian production. Rarity: High


Czechoslovakia — Bohemia, Moravia & Regional Makers (A–Z)

Czech razors are known for durability and solid steel.


MIKOV (Czechoslovakia)

Notes: Still active; vintage razors are collectible. Rarity: Medium

SANDRIK (Czechoslovakia)

Notes: Good steel; mid‑grade. Rarity: Medium


Russia — St. Petersburg, Moscow & Regional Makers (A–Z)

Russian razors vary widely in quality but are historically interesting.


STIZ (Soviet Union)

Notes: Common Soviet production. Rarity: Low–Medium

TRUD (Russia)

Notes: Mid‑grade Russian steel. Rarity: Medium

ZLATOUST (Russia)

Notes: Military‑grade steel; collectible. Rarity: Medium–High


China — Canton, Hong Kong & Regional Makers (A–Z)

Chinese razors range from early hand‑forged pieces to modern mass production.


GOLD DOLLAR (China)

Notes: Modern, inexpensive; modding community favorite. Rarity: Low

TIANLI (China)

Notes: Mid‑grade modern production. Rarity: Low–Medium


Miscellaneous Regions (A–Z)

These makers fall outside major razor‑producing nations but are historically important.


BRAZIL — GAUCHO

Notes: Rare South American production. Rarity: High

INDIA — VARIOUS MAKERS

Notes: Modern production; quality varies. Rarity: Low

PAKISTAN — VARIOUS MAKERS

Notes: Not collectible; poor steel. Rarity: Low

PORTUGAL — LISBOA CUTLERS

Notes: Rare. Rarity: High


FAQ — Frequently Asked Questions


Q: What Is The Best Razor For Beginners

A: A 5/8 full hollow from Solingen or the USA.


Q: What Is The Rarest Razor?

A:

  • Filarmonica 14 JMP

  • Heljestrand MK 33

  • Wade & Butcher “For Barbers Use”

  • Tanifuji Maxfli


Q: How Do I Store My Razors?

A:

  • Dry completely

  • Oil lightly

  • Store in a cool, low‑humidity environment


Q: How Often Should I Hone My Razor?

A: Every 3–6 months with regular stropping.


Q: What Kills Razor Value?

A:

  • Deep pitting

  • Cracks

  • Heavy hone wear

  • Broken scales

  • Over‑polishing


Glossary — Straight Razor Terminology

ABCDEFGHIJKLMNOPQRSTUVWXYZ


Abrasive — A material used to remove metal during honing or polishing.
Alloy A blend of metals used to create specific steel characteristics.
Anatomy (Razor Anatomy) — The structural components of a straight razor (spine, tang, scales, etc.).
Arkansas Stone — A natural honing stone prized for its fine polishing ability.

Barber’s Notch — A semicircular cutout at the tip of the blade for easier opening.
Bevel — The angled surface that forms the cutting edge.
Bevel Set — The foundational stage of honing where the edge is first established.
Blade Face — The flat surface of the razor between the spine and the edge.
Blue Steel — A high‑carbon Japanese steel known for hardness and edge retention.
Burr — A tiny fold of metal created during sharpening.

Carbon Steel — Steel with high carbon content; sharpens easily and takes a keen edge.
Coticule — A Belgian natural stone known for producing a smooth, refined edge.
Croxton — A stropping compound used to polish and refine the edge.
Cutler — A craftsman who manufactures blades.

Damascus Steel — Layered steel with visible patterns; valued for beauty and performance.
Double Stabilizer — Two raised ridges near the heel that add rigidity.
Draw (Strop Draw) — The level of friction felt when stropping.

Edge — The sharpened cutting line of the blade.
End Cap — Decorative metal caps on the ends of scales.

Face (Blade Face) — The main surface of the blade.
Fin (Edge Fin) — The ultra‑thin micro‑edge created during final honing.
Full Hollow — A deeply ground blade offering maximum flexibility and sharpness.

German Silver — A nickel alloy used for decorative inlays and pins.
Grind — The shape and thickness profile of the blade (wedge, half hollow, full hollow, etc.).
Grit — The coarseness of a honing stone.

HHT (Hanging Hair Test) — A test for sharpness using a suspended hair.
Heel — The rear end of the cutting edge near the tang.
Hollow Grind — A concave blade grind that increases sharpness.
Honing — The process of sharpening a razor on stones.

Iberian Steel — Steel historically produced in Spain and Portugal, known for toughness.
Inlay — Decorative material embedded into scales.

Jnat (Japanese Natural Stone) — Highly prized natural honing stones from Japan.
Jimps — Textured grooves on the tang for grip.

Kamisori — A traditional Japanese straight razor with an asymmetrical grind.
Keen Edge — A razor sharpened to maximum fineness.

Lather — The foam created by shaving soap to lubricate the skin.
Lead Hardening — A historical steel‑treating method used by Sheffield makers.

Micro‑Bevel — A tiny secondary bevel added for durability.
Monkey Tail — The curved end of the tang.
Molybdenum Steel — Steel alloyed for corrosion resistance.

Near Wedge — A blade with minimal hollowing; stiff and heavy.
Nickel Silver — A corrosion‑resistant alloy used for pins and bolsters.

Oil Quench — A heat‑treating method that hardens steel.
Oxidation — The chemical reaction that causes rust.

Point (Blade Point) — The shape of the blade tip (round, square, French, Spanish, etc.).
Pitting — Small corrosion holes in the steel.
Pivot Pin — The pin that connects the blade to the scales.

Quenching — Rapid cooling of heated steel to harden it.

Razor Burn — Skin irritation caused by poor technique or dull blades.
Restoration — The process of cleaning, polishing, and repairing vintage razors.
Round Point — A beginner‑friendly blade tip with a rounded end.

Scales — The handle pieces that house the blade.
Sheffield Steel — Legendary English steel known for smooth shaving performance.
Shave‑Ready — A razor honed to a level suitable for immediate shaving.
Spine — The thick back edge of the blade.
Stabilizer — A ridge near the heel that adds strength.
Stropping — Aligning and polishing the edge on leather.

Tang — The part of the blade held during shaving.
Tension (Strop Tension) — The tightness applied to a strop during use.
Thiers Steel — French steel associated with the Thiers cutlery region.

Unicot Method — A honing technique using a secondary bevel.

Vintage — A razor typically 20+ years old, often collectible.
Vulcanized Fiber — A durable material used for scales.

Wedge — A thick, minimally ground blade offering rigidity.
Wootz Steel — Ancient crucible steel known for patterned surfaces.

X‑Stroke — A honing stroke that moves diagonally across the stone.

Yield (Edge Yield) — The razor’s ability to maintain sharpness under use.

Zamak — A zinc‑based alloy sometimes used in modern razor components.

 

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